Pages :REMODEL AND LANDSCAPE IDEAS

Thursday, March 1, 2012

ONE UNIQUE WALL , MADE FROM OLD USED CRATES

I just fell in love with this unique accent wall. What a great idea for a DIY project.Talk about a budget friendly home decorating idea! I found this on 
“Pinterest” which by the way I just love!
Last time we talked about the nursery
and this:
and a promise that the accent wall for our baby boy’s room would be (and I quote) “rockin” and “boyish” and “hug-worthy”.  Let me just give myself a huge pat on the back…because it is.  It really is.  The accent wall is everything I hoped for and more.  
I know…you are just wishing you could reach through your computer monitor and slap me right now…kinda like when that girl crawled outta the television in the movie The Ring…but a lot less creepy and more out of anticipation than the desire to take my soul into Hades.  But just be warned, I am an avid movie watcher and I know how to defeat evil spirits.  Plus, I got Jesus on my side…and well, frankly, he would totally backhand any evil-spirited chick if they came close.  We are tight like that.
Back to the point.  We created a very masculine accent wall for our nursery & can’t wait to share it.  But first, let’s introduce you to our inspiration: 
That’s right.  They are shipping pallets.  And there is such a thing in the world as Pallet-Craft.  I know.  I googled it.  Pallet-craft is reusing the wood that makes up shipping crates or pallets to make something else….like a chair or a deck or in our case, an accent wall.  And since we wanted a very cabin-inspired-look-meets-contemporary-aesthetic in our nursery, we thought there was no better (or cheaper) way to get the great woods indoors…than to put wood indoors. 
After a WHOLE lotta googling about the safety of using the Grade III wood that makes up pallets, we learned that some pallets are treated with pesticides & fungicides (NOT GOOD) but that you can find vendors that use untreated lumber (GOOD).  If you or your vendor doesn’t know if the pallets are treated, there are certain precautions to follow when using the treated lumber.  In our nursery, we followed those precautions even though we knew the lumber was not treated.  Afterall, you can’t be too safe with a baby.
First, (after researching & calling local home improvement store managers to find a place that would give us free pallets of untreated wood), Jeremy picked up about two dozen pallets.  Then he took his sawsall to them, cutting through the nails and giving us disassembled wood planks. 
Then, he used an electric sander to remove any splinters and also to loosen any dirt or debris.   
After sanding, he thoroughly cleaned each plank & removed any loose nail heads before taking them into the nursery.  This is when we made our first mistake:  we sorted the wood by color.  It’s much faster to sort the wood by width…if you are planning on doing this at home.         
After you sort it by width, then sort it by condition…like put all the wood of the same width with large cracks together.  It helps.  Believe me.
Ok.  So now that the wood is prepped for installation (and you didn’t inhale any pesticides because you sanded & cleaned everything in a well ventilated area while wearing a mask!  Good for you…you will not die.  Not right now.  Not from pesticides anyway.),  now is the time to come up with your plan of attack.  We didn’t.  Mistake #2.
We knew that we would attach the planks with an air compressor and a brad nail gun…
(here’s our setting for you pallet-crafters),
but we didn’t know much else. 
In fact, we started with these nails (3/4″)…
mistake #3.
And ended up using these (1″):
Afterall, nobody wants a plank to come down on Baby Will.   
So we just started in one corner and nailed in a plank along the bottom of the plywood.  When we got to the corner, we just measured and cut an ugly plank to fill in the gap.  Rows 1 & 2 were pretty fast.  But then we got to the outlet. At first, we thought we would just cut a piece to fit around it.  Then my boyfriend suggested a door. 
I know.  It sounded crazy to me too. 
But then he explained.  He could cut out a piece of wood & attach it with a mini piano hinge to the nearby planks so that the outlet would be out of sight…and out of the reach of mini baby Bower fingers.  Plus, it could blend into the wall instead of having a bright white outlet plate showing. 
It’s not done yet, but that is what the plan is.  So for now, we cut the pieces to go right to the edge of the outlet plate sides.
Then we did the same thing with the next row.
That’s when mistake #4 occured.  When we installed the row #3, we didn’t make sure that the tops of the planks lined up evenly.  So row #4 didn’t line up.  We had to figure out a way to put a solid piece across the top without having huge gaps.
Again…boyfriend to the rescue.  He just took his circular saw and cut the top of the higher plank so that it would line up with the one on the other side of the outlet.
Setting the saw to the depth of the wood plank ensured that he wouldn’t cut through the plywood underneath…just the taller plank.
Can I just say that boyfriends with accent wall solutions are hot?
Because they totally are.
In the end, it lined up perfectly and we forged ahead.
When it came to the window sill, we just cut the end of the plank to fit perfect around it.
We did avoid mistake #5 by remembering to vary the widths of the planks.  Since we wanted this wall to look random (but not too random), we knew that it would be important to use the wider planks in a row every once in a while.  You can see we put about seven thinner rows between our thicker rows.  I think it helps create a very random (but not too random) look.
Oh – and if you are doing pallet-craft, it is important to take breaks.  We took the mandatory Smoothie-King break half-way through.   
After said break was over, we got back to work.
Or Jeremy got back to work and I got back to sitting down with my camera…
That’s when mistake #6 hit.  This time it had to do with levelness again.  When we built up either side of the window, the sides were slightly off.  The left side was slightly lower than the right side.
So we decided that the best fix would be to notch out the plank directly above the window so that it could fill in the cracks.  You can see here how the right hand arrow is showing you were we ‘notched’ the wood out.  The left arrow shows how we had to improvise with the wood planks (using various widths) to make it even.
We did this once before on a lower piece but that time it was because we ran outta the same width planks.  I don’t think it looks bad…in fact I love the imperfections of a wood wall.
My favorite imperfections are the cracks and the knots and the nail holes.  They seem so manly to me.  Which is good…because this is gonna be a little man’s room.
So ready for the finished wall?
Are you really really ready?
Ok…stop trying to strangle me through your computer screen…
here it is:
Pretty hot huh?
And because I am a dork, I mocked up some curtains on there so see if I liked it.
Ok.  Now for all you folks out there who aren’t completely satisfied with our pallet-wood safety precautions, it doesn’t stop there.
oh no.
Now comes the nitty-gritty.
After we finished installing the wood, Jeremy whipped out the vacuum.
He made sure each little dust particle was off this bad boy.
And then we applied satin polyurethane.  We decided to go with the spray type in a satin finish.  This way if the plank-people-lied and we had treated wood, it would literally have to rain outside, seep through our exterior, our drywall, our plywood and our pallet wood, and then Will would have to pick away the polyurethane and suck on the seepage to be affected by the pesticides. 
We felt pretty solid about the chances of that not happening.  And if it does…well, Will can have a kick-diaper story about the way he avoided death when he goes to pre-K.   
So that’s it folks.  One very accented wall…for the grand total cost of $15.  Since the pallet wood was free and we had a giftcard for the polyurethane, the 2.3 pieces of plywood & a half a pack of nails was our only cost.  Not too bad, huh?  I think it looks a heck of a lot costlier than that…plus we figure since it isn’t a baby-style wall, it can grow with Will as he develops into a young man.   
What do you think?  Does it look like a textural masterpiece to anyone else?  Because it totally tells me to hug it with it’s boyish good looks.  And does anyone else out there have a penchant for pallet-crafting?  Or maybe you had a cheap alternative to an accent wall yourself?  Was it painted on or was it a wall decal or what?  C’mon.  Tell me about it…nothing is hotter than an accent….wall :)
 
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Saturday, August 6, 2011

Candi's Decorating on a Budget: HomeGoods Garden page

Candi's Decorating on a Budget: HomeGoods Garden page: "Beautiful accessories yet simple, can change an outdoor space so easily . Cluster worn and new pots with vases on top of a textured throw f..."

Friday, August 5, 2011

HomeGoods Garden page

Beautiful accessories yet simple, can change an outdoor space so easily .
Cluster worn and new pots with vases on top of a textured throw for eye catching appeal. 
Layering it up against a back drop of shrubs or patio wall with a metal sundial  up above or
any ceramic or metal wall hanging will draw your eye up for a complete look.
Candi Mcgehee




ARTICLE BELOW FROM HOMEGOODS




Landscape ideas



I always get excited when I run across good design, not only in interiors but exteriors as well. I was out looking at a new home development and was interested in seeing any new  innovative design ideas. I was not disappointed. The landscaping was a highlight.

There are so many ways to bring interest and drama to a yard without having to spend a fortune. I saw these great geometric grass designs and had to share them. I like to say, “a room indoors or out, needs at least one big attention getter” so I loved how my attention was instantly aroused in these great outdoor spaces. These areas were like graphic organic rugs that anchored the seating or dining areas.



If you like these ideas and your yard is a blank canvas, start with a plan. List the functions of the space… dining, relaxation, outdoor cooking, play area etc. Divide the space up according to your needs. Plan a space to add in your geometric grass design for the most visual impact. If your yard is in, plan out an area that can be reworked into your existing landscape to give it a real updated, fresh look.



The “grass” in these designs is a faux grass, which is the perfect material to use for this application. You could use real grass, but with faux you don’t have to worry about watering, mowing, feeding etc.  Just make sure you get the most authentic looking grass you can buy that blends with the real grass in your yard.



The spaces you use don’t have to be large, but big enough to make a statement and anchor your furnishings nicely. Space planning is a must to get the proportions right and everything square, but it’s not hard to plan it on graph paper after measuring the space first. Then work from your plans.




Draw a few designs out on graph paper of your yard, then try a few ideas that fit the space. If you want a simple design, start with a “rug” shape (see below). Square or rectangle to fit your table or seating area, just like a rug size indoors. If you’re more adventurous, go for a checkerboard, stripe, lattice, Greek key or any geometric shape.


I hope you like these yards as much as I do. When I run into something that makes me stop and take notice, I have to know more about it and why it works so well at capturing my attention.
Have a great rest of the summer. It’s not too late to add  a little “geometry class” to your yard. What do you think? Do you like this look? Love to hear!!

Geometric yard design, grass designs, Landscape, Outdoor living

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Geometry Adds Up To Great Yard Design
Link: http://www.homegoods.com/hg-share-this/?pid=14575

Monday, February 28, 2011

Candi's Decorating on a Budget: Stencils,Plaster Molds,Decorating Ideas

Candi's Decorating on a Budget: I found this wonderful site...Let your imagination go wild...the most beautiful work!


Stencils,Plaster Molds,Decorating Ideas
To see Victoria Larsen's amazing work and to get great ideas click on  the link below. 

  Home Decor Stencils and Plaster Molds

Stencils,Plaster Molds,Decorating Ideas

Plaster Stencils











Plaster Life-sized Sapling Tree Stencil
 





 (Click Photos to Enlarge)











This super easy stencil set creates delicate, thin little trees that add soft beauty to your walls. Use just one to brighten a drab corner or create an entire wall of them.Use plaster or just paint and stencil these trees as tall as you wish! Simply repeat the trunk stencil to within about 2 feet of the desired height, add the trunk top stencil and then start adding stenciled side branches and leaves to create a life-sized sapling that will add cheer to any space.
How did I create that cool background? I simply painted the surface golden yellow, plastered the trunks and side branches only and then once they were dry, I mixed brown paint with a little translucent wall glaze and using an artists brush, traced the sides of the tree skeleton then softened with a sponge to blend slightly in to the background color. It was easy and added depth to the design with a shadowed appearance behind each tree.
I then continued to add more side branches and leafy branches. This method can be done with any wall color you choose as your background.
Notice that one tree was created to appear farther back than the two other trees. That is accomplished by simply beginning that tree farther up the wall. It will appear to be a few feet "behind" the other trees.
The trees as shown are right around 6 feet tall. This is a fabulous tree design to do above wainscoting or chair rail molding in a room or group 3-5 trees in a corner and then light them up with canister lighting from the floor. Awesome!
Want color in your trees? Remember that joint compound can be pre-tinted with any darkly colored craft paint. It saves the time of painting each part of your trees.

All of the stencils you need are included in this set:
 (Each stencil is a single stencil)
Repeatable trunk: 16 3/4" tall by 1 1/4" wide
Trunk Top: 19" tall x 11 1/2" at it's widest point
Long Side Branch: 16 1/4" tall x 1" wide
Small Side Branch: 10 3/4" tall by 1/2" wide
Leafy Branch: 14 1/2" tall by 9 1/4" wide
Leaf Sprig: 5"tall by 4 1/4" wide


Stencils,Plaster Molds,Decorating Ideas
http://www.victorialarsen.com/default.htm

Faux Finish and Furniture Refinishing paint product supplies for furniture and cabinetsWood Icing Pear Design

Faux Finish and Furniture Refinishing paint product supplies for furniture and cabinets





Friday, February 25, 2011

A NEW FLOOR FOR LITTLE MONEY


SPREADSTONE 



    A NEW WAY TO TRANSFORM YOUR EXISTING FLOORS OR CONCRETE PATIOS OR WALLS
AT A FRACTION OF REPLACING THEM .
YOU REALLY NEED TO CHECK THIS SITE OUT!








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lN7Z-xjUxa4


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0CCAQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D5I714vBeYS4&ei=vB1oTfuVKIa4sQP5mOimBA&usg=AFQjCNHLBV1LTtk8z_qvvDffYvXDQJ6c7w




CLEANING & PREPARATION
Surface preparation is by far the most important step
in your SpreadStone™ project. For optimum long–term
performance, the surface should be thoroughly
cleaned and dry, free from dust, dirt, loose flaking,
oils, poorly bonded or glossy paint, glue, surface
sealers, efflorescence and other contaminates.
APPLICATIONS OVER CONCRETE:
Surface should be level and in good condition. Chip away any loose or flaking concrete
and skim coat any rough or uneven areas with a quality leveling compound. Try to get
the surface fairly smooth to ensure that deep pitting, bumps and other
unsightly flaws do not transmit through your finish later. This is also the time to
mend any cracks in the concrete surface. These should be fixed with an appropriate crack
repair or cement patch product. If you have a troublesome, recurring crack in the surface
you may wish to look at the option of saw-cutting it relieve pressure in the slab. Hairline
cracks generally do not need to be repaired prior to application of SpreadStone™ if the
slab is stable. Allow all repair materials to cure as directed.
EXTERIOR CONCRETE PREPARATION
ETCHING CONCRETE
If the concrete is new, very smooth or efflorescent (whitish-colored mineral salts coming up
through the concrete surface) etching will be required. Otherwise this step can be optional.
Etching is a fairly simple process and only takes a few minutes to perform. To mix an
etching solution, first pour some water into a clean pail and, second, follow by adding
about half as much muriatic acid into the water (always in that order to avoid acid splashback)
and stir gently with a suitable mixing paddle. (Wear protective clothing, gloves
and eyewear and follow all safety precautions as provided by the muriatic
acid manufacturer. Avoid breathing vapors. Etching should be performed in a
well-ventilated area.)
1) Wet nearby soil, flowers and shrubs and other objects immediately prior to etching to
protect them from the etching process. 2) Carefully pour the mixture gently onto the entire
surface. Step away from the area to avoid breathing any vapors and allow it fizz for a few
minutes. 3) When fizzing stops, gently rinse away etching solution with a garden hose.
WASHING
Washing is the most important step. You must remove all embedded dirt, dust and
powdery etching residue, etc. from the surface for reliable bond. For this stage
you must perform one or both of the following two options:
OPTION 1 - Using a stiff deck brush, vigorously scrub the area with a strong TSP (trisodium
phosphate) solution. If etching was performed previously, this is also helpful in neutralizing
any remaining acid residues. (If there are grease stains present, these should be washed
using a strong degreaser soap applied at 100% strength onto the grease spot, scrubbed
and thoroughly rinsed.) For most reliable cleaning, combine this step with
“Option 2” which follows.
Option 2 - (Recommended for best long-term durability) Use a power washer to
clean the concrete surface. For the most reliable cleaning this option is best. Use a unit
with at least 2400 psi pressure and clean the surface with slow sweeping movements
holding the spray tip about three inches from the surface. You will see a big difference in
cleanliness of the area using this method.
NEW CONCRETE
Allow a minimum 28 days cure before application.
NEW MASONRY COATINGS
Allow at least 48 hours cure before coating application. Longer in cool or damp conditions.
APPLICATIONS OVER WOOD
SpreadStone™ bonds well to wood. As with concrete, however, the wood must be clean,
stable and in good condition prior to application of your preferred coating. The surface to
be coated must be free from common and sanding dust, dirt and other contaminates
which may block or weaken adhesion. This is especially true with exterior decking surfaces
which are subject to precipitation and climactic changes. If a pre-existing paint coating is
on the surface, the following measures will apply:
PAINTED WOOD
If the paint is showing signs of weakness (peeling, flaking, bubbling, etc.) you should sand the
surface and remove it completely. Remove any sanding dust and/or paint debris with a vacuum
and follow with a wipe-down using a damp (not wet) sponge.
With the surface completely dry and clean, apply an “alkyd” wood primer. When the alkyd
primer has cured fully (see product directions) you may begin application of your SpreadStone™
finish.
If the painted surface is sound, scuff the entire painted surface with 140 grit sandpaper,
remove all sanding dust / debris and apply SpreadStone™ as desired.
PLYWOOD FLOORS/DECKS
If the floor is new construction, we recommend
that you use at least 5/8” tongue and groove
plywood fastened solidly to joists with galvanized
screws (for rust resistance).
Scuff the surface well with coarse grit
sandpaper to create a better bonding surface,
thoroughly vacuum the sanded area to remove
all resulting dust, coat the entire surface with a
quality alkyd primer and allow to cure fully.
Next, seams where plywood sheets meet
should be treated to help isolate movement as
follows:
1) Caulk all seams using paintable exterior grade
flexible acrylic caulking. 2) Push caulk into seams
and make flush with surface. 3) When caulking is
dry, apply a generous coat of DAICH Primer over the seam area. 4)
Embed fiber (drywall type) mesh into the wet material usuing your
fingers or a scraper. Use 2 to 3 staggered overlapping strips.
5) Finish with a final thin smoothing coat of DAICH Primer over the
mesh and allow to dry before continuing with general application.
Another option for isolating movement is applying a “mesh and
scratch coat.” This is a process by which a galvanized metal mesh
(lath) is stapled or nailed down to the existing primed plywood followed by application of
a polymer-enhanced masonry coating over the mesh/wood substrate until a smooth
surface is achieved. (Before performing this step we suggest you seek
knowledgeable detailed instruction from a qualified source.)
OTHER SURFACES:
DRYWALL
Wipe down the surface with a damp sponge to remove dust. If there is paint on the wall,
lightly scuff the surface with a medium to light grit sandpaper then vacuum or wipe off
sanding dust with a damp sponge.
INTERIOR LAMINATES
Provided that the surface is not moving and structurally sound, laminates can provide an
acceptable substrate for SpreadStone™. As always, however, care must be taken to ensure
that movement does not occur where there are seams in the surface, which could result in
hairline cracking. To prepare a laminate surface for coating, the area should be thoroughly
scuffed with a course grit (40 to 60) sandpaper (to add good surface bonding tooth) and
then cleaned of all dust, dirt and sanding debris. Use this technique when preparing
for applications over laminate countertops as well.
INTERIOR VINYL
Provided that the surface is not moving and structurally sound, interior vinyl flooring offers
an acceptable bonding substrate for SpreadStone™ To prepare a vinyl surface for coating,
the area should be thoroughly scuffed with a course grit sandpaper (to add good surface
bonding tooth) and then cleaned of all dust, dirt and sanding debris. If installing over
vinyl tile, it’s important to ensure that the tiles are firmly adhered to a stable
floor with little or no movement to ensure that hairline cracks do not appear
where tiles meet. Otherwise, measures will have to be taken to eliminate
movement.
INTERIOR CERAMIC TILE
Provided that the surface is clean, dust-free, not moving and structurally sound, interior
ceramic tile can provide an acceptable bonding surface.
If the tile has a shiny, high-slip veneer, it should be removed through surface abrasion or
with an “etching” product that can be used to remove the shine.
Next, scrub the surface thoroughly with a strong TSP solution, rinse thoroughly until
clean and allow to dry fully. If adequate drainage is not available, a wet/dry vacuum will be
necessary to lift water and debris from the surface. If you wish to conceal the old grout
lines, you will need to fill them with a suitable masonry material to create a uniform
surface prior to application of SpreadStone™.
Alternatively, you can apply a suitable masonry skim coat over the entire cleaned area
to add a completely new and porous application surface.
*Floor movement stabilization/isolation methods mentioned here are only suggestions toward achieving correct
surface conditions prior to application and are not a guarantee as to final results.We recommend that you seek
additional expert advice and choose the best preparation strategies based on your specific situation.
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APPLICATION TOOLS
SpreadStone’s versatility lets you experiment with a variety of techniques to
achieve just the right combination of texture and color - and create a look that
suits your unique taste.
The most common application tool used is a steel trowel - which we will
outline here - but you can also try tools like brushes, standard and textured
rollers, sea sponges, brooms, etc.
COLOR USAGE
With SpreadStone you can go with a one-color application and rely on the
interplay of texture and shadow to complete your finish - or blend a variety of
desired colors.
When applying multiple colors, the technique employed is generally “wet-inwet,”
in which varying tones are mixed together directly on the application
surface as you move along, to produce interesting marbling effects and attractive
intermediate tones. The darkest and/or strongest colors are often applied first as a
thin base coat, followed by lighter “mix colors” to produce a sense of depth in
the finish.
Remember: these are just guidelines. Feel free to experiment and find ways to
create your own unique effect.
*** For detailed, “live” instruction of the techniques described here, ask your
Daich Coatings dealer for a copy of our instructional video or view it online at
www.daichcoatings.com.
TYPICAL TROWEL APPLICATION
1) Stir SpreadStone thoroughly prior to
application 2) Stir SpreadStone tinted to your
preferred base color and, in manageable areas
within your reach, apply a thin layer of the
material over the surface (no more than 1/16”
thick) with a straight-edged steel trowel.
3) Next, lightly skim your highlight colors into
the wet surface as desired, taking care not to
overmix them into the base and lose your
preferred tones. Vary the degree of mixing -
more in some places, less or not at all, in
others. 4) On vertical surfaces a plastering
“hawk” can be used to limit spillage during application. Pull
product in an upward motion. 5) With colors mixed to your
liking, add a stipple texture to the surface by lightly patting it
with the flat side of your trowel or a large damp sea sponge.
6) Next, with the smoother tool that came with your
SpreadStone, lightly skim over and randomly “knock down” the
tips of the stippled surface. This action will dictate the degree of
final texture in your SpreadStone finish. The more you knock it
down, the smoother and more marbelized it will be. 7) For
increased or more rapid texture smoothing, or to slow drying
time, use a spray bottle to lightly mist SpreadStone with water
just prior to “knock-down” 8) For best control and longer
working time, do not apply under hot sunlight. 9)Work
temperature should be between 5º C and 40º C during
installation and for a full 24 hours after application. In outdoor
applications, SpreadStone is usually dry to the touch within 60 minutes (3 to 4
hours indoors). When complete, allow curing for 24 hours - longer in damp, cool
or unventilated conditions - prior to sealing.
TILE & FLAGSTONE EFFECTS
1) If using a patterned tile or flagstone effect for your finish, begin by troweling a
thin skim coat of SpreadStone tinted to your desired grout color over the entire
area (between 1/32” to 1/16” thickness). This first coat is also a very effective
surface “primer.” Allow it to cure until the next day - unless you are working
outdoors in windy, dry and warm conditions which may speed drying
considerably. 2) Using tape as a stencil, tape out a groutline pattern in your
preferred tile or stone size and pattern over the dry base coat. For typical tile
effects, use 1/4” Daich Coatings “Tile Grout Tape.” For flagstone effects, use duct
tape and trim away the straight edges with a utility knife for an irregular
“natural” appearance. 3) Carefully apply SpreadStone in your desired finish over
the taped surface. Take care not to dislodge your tape stencil as you
move along. As a precaution, you may wish to brush on a very thin coat of
base-colored SpreadStone over the stencil lines to “tack” them down before
general application. This light application usually dries very quickly and should not
delay your work. 4) Apply SpreadStone to your liking and, when it has cured for
24 hours, peel up your stencil to reveal your grout pattern.
COLOR SPONGING
Sponging offers a great way to accentuate the texture in your
SpreadStone finish, while very effectively camouflaging any
areas that may not look exactly as you had planned. It also
adds more visual depth while giving you the opportunity of introducing “clean”
(unmixed) highlight colors. 1) Apply SpreadStone in your preferred color onto a
large sponge. 2) With varying hand pressure, randomly drag the sponge across
the textured SpreadStone surface and highlight to your liking. It is best to begin
with lighter pressure when your sponge is freshly loaded to avoid applying too
much color in one place. Sponging should be performed before grout stencils are
removed.
TINT WASHES
Tint washes also effectively accent surface texture, but will not
hide imperfect application like sponging can. Tint washes can
also create beautiful translucent effects when applied over
white or lightly colored SpreadStone textured surfaces.
1) Mix one tablespoon of DAICH powdered tint with between
2 and 4 quarts of water as desired. Stir until uniform. 2) Distribute the mixture
randomly over your dry SpreadStone surface using a sponge or string mop, and
allow to dry fully. Perform tinting before grout line stencils are removed.
SANDING
Sanding is an effective option for refining the overall surface appearance and
texture after SpreadStone™ has dried fully - especially with interior applications.
It removes unwanted rough spots and can lend a more blended appearance.
When performed after tint washing, sanding also has the interesting effect of
“shaving” off part of the tinted finish and re-exposing the original color in the
surface for a rustic highlight.
1) Use 80 or 100 grit sandpaper mounted on a pole sander and draw it
uniformly over the dried installation surface area. 2) Remove all sanding dust and
debris before application of sealer.
** Avoid breathing sanding dust. To perform sanding, use a quality
fitted NIOSH-approved dustmask (N-95 rating or better) when sanding
and for removing resulting dust. If vacuming, use a unit equipped with
a filter rated for use with fine particulates).
SPRAY APPLICATIONS
SpreadStone™ can also be applied to floor and wall surfaces using an air
powered hopper pistol assembly. Product can be sprayed in a uniform stipple
pattern and knocked down for partial smoothing and attractive textural designs.
Alternately, SpreadStone™ can be sprayed in a light speckled pattern over a
basecoat to create a granite-like or terrazzo appearance. Experiment to refine your
technique before doing an actual installation and see what you can achieve!
APPLYING SEALER
With your SpreadStone™ installation completed and cured, its time to roll on a
protective coating of sealer to help keep it clean and water-resistant.
SEALER CHOICES
Two sealers can be used with SpreadStone™: ”Acrylic Sealer” and “High-Build
Clear.”
A) For most exterior installations where a more textured, matte finish is desired,
choose Acrylic Sealer.
B) For interior floors, shower areas, garage floors, countertops and higher-traffic
exterior surfaces subject to more dirt, High-Build Clear is best. It effectively fills
deep surface texture with a clear acrylic film that helps block dirt intrusion into the
finish for easiest cleaning where rain, garden hoses and power washers are not
availailable or suitable. Multiple coats can be applied (24 hours between coats -
longer in cooler weather) as desired until your preferred degree of smoothness and
cleanability is achieved. ** IF YOUR GOAL IS A VERY SMOOTH SURFACE, DO NOT
RELY SOLELY ON MULTIPLE COATS OF HIGH-BUILD CLEAR. SPREADSTONE™
SHOULD BE APPLIED MORE SMOOTHLY BEFOREHAND - OR AT LEAST SANDED TO
YOUR PREFERRED SMOOTHNESS IF THE SURFACE WAS ALLOWED TO DRY WITH
GREATER TEXTURE.
**REMEMBER: As surface smoothness is increased, slip resistance and
resulting foot traction decreases.**
INSTALLING SPREADSTONE™
With your surface prepared, you are ready to unlock your
creative taste with SpreadStone. Using the following
directions – and a bit of practice – you should soon be
achieving beautiful results.
APPLYING ACRYLIC SEALER
1) In clean footwear, sweep or wipe away any dirt or foreign objects
that may be on your new SpreadStone™ surface (leaves, bird
droppings, etc.). 2) Pour Acrylic Sealer into a paint tray and apply a
uniform coat onto the entire area using a lint-free 10 mm nap roller.
Apply a second coat 24 to 48 hours later. 3) Avoid stepping
on the surface while it is tacky. 4) Rope off the sealed area to allow
curing and discourage foot traffic for 24 hours. 5)Wash the surface,
allow it to dry and re-seal the following year.Afterward, sealing every
one or two years is adequate for ongoing maintenance.
APPLYING HIGH-BUILD CLEAR
1) Sweep or wipe away any dirt or foreign objects that may be on your new
SpreadStone™ surface. 2) Pour High-Build Clear into a paint tray and apply a
generous uniform coat onto the entire area using a lint-free 10 mm nap roller or
paint brush. First coats usually show significant absorbtion.
Greater film build will occur with coats that follow. Apply
additional coats every 18 - 24 hours (longer in damp or
cool conditions) until desired result is achieved. (Surface
may be used between coats provided that the area is kept
clean.) 3) Do not step on the surface while it is tacky. 4)
Rope off the area to allow curing and discourage foot
traffic for 24 hours.

spreadstone_manual.pdf (application/pdf Object)