- A MUST FOR
- A CRAFTER!
- I SO WANT THIS TABLE …
- I FIRST SAW THIS
- TABLE ON PINTEREST
- WHEN YOU SEE THIS YOU WILL WANT
- ONE TOO
- The Tutorial. AKA The Longest Post Ever.
First, I just wanted to say thank you guys for all the love, sweet comments and emails about the original table. I loved being able to pass all that on the Hub's.
My Hub's wanted to rebuild the table from scratch so that he could show you step by step how to build one for you. Originally, we intended on doing a complete video tutorial.
That would have been awesome.
But about 30 seconds into videoing it, the boys started screaming, and interrupting the Hub's, and asking us for a million things, and we realized that there was no way in hell we would be able to video it with the boys home.
So, we did the next best thing. We took a million pictures, and we kept pages of notes.
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So, the thing about this type of table is it's a very versatile thing. You can customize these plans to fit whatever your exact needs/wants are.
Since I already have my work table in my office, and we don't have a need for another one, the Hub's decided to re-build the fold out table as a fold out Lego table for the boys so we could get rid of their train table that takes up a ton of space, and is used purely for Legos at this point.
The exact specs of this particular tutorial are different from the original table, but the steps are essentially the same. Also, at the end of the tutorial, I do include the specs for the original table, as well as a couple instructions for the parts that differ from this second table.
We hope that the tutorial is easy to understand, and that you guys can make your own fold out tables for whatever your needs.
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Supply List
1. (1) 2' x 6' Ponderosa panel (solid pine edge-glued panel)
2. (5) 6' long 1 x 8
3. (9) 6' long 1 x 4's
4. (2) 10' Plastic gutter (We got ours at Lowes)
5. Kreg Jig
6. Kreg self-tapping pocket-hole screws (sizes used were 2 1/2" for mounting to the wall. For everything else 1 1/4")
7. 6 x 1/2" Metal screws
8. (2) Exterior hinges
9. (2) Interior hinges
10. Latch
11. Wood glue
12. Brads 1" or 1 1/4"
Part 1
Wall Box
1. Using (2) 6 ft. 1 x 8, cut the top and bottom pieces for the box to 51 1/2".
2. Using (1) 6 ft. 1 x 8, cut the two side pieces for the box to 30".
3. Measure for the screw placement on the top and bottom pieces to attach to the side pieces.
* Measure 3/8" in from the edge. Space the screws evenly.
*Because of the width of this particular box, my Hub's went with 3 screws (don't forget to space
evenly).
4. Apply wood glue to the end of one of the 30" side pieces.
5. Line it up with the top piece and screw the side piece and top piece together.
6. Repeat for the other side piece.
5. Turn those 3 pieces (that are now screwed together) upside down.
6. Apply glue to the side piece ends, then line up the bottom piece, and screw together.
Part 2
Table Top
1. Using a circular saw, cut the panel piece to 49 7/8" (1/8" shorter than the opening, this is so the table top won't rub when it folds up).
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The table top panel only comes in 24" at our local Lowes, so my Hub's had to cut a 1 x 8 to 5 7/8"W x 49 7/8' L, and then scab that piece together with the panel to make the table top 29 7/8"(for the same reason as the cutting the width of the table to 49 7/8")
If you need to scab your wood together also:
1. Measure 2" and 16" in from each end of the 5 7/8" piece, and mark those measurements.
2. Measure 9" from either side, and 25" to the center of the panel so that the screws are offset and coming from both sides of the panel and the 5 7/8" scab piece
3. Use your jig to drill holes at each mark
4. Apply wood glue to the edge of the 5 7/8" scab piece, and then screw the panel piece, and the 5 7/8" pieces together.
**They do make Kreg jig plugs for filling in those jig holes if you want them filled in.
Part 3
Interior Hinges
1. Measure 3/4" in from the edge, and then 10" in from each side on the inside of the bottom piece of the wall box. That mark will be where the center of your hinge will go.
2. Screw your hinges on.
3. Attach tabletop to the hinges per directions provided with hinges.
Part 4
Frame
1. Rip (3) 6 ft. 1 x 4's down to 2" wide.
2. Then cut two of those to 51 1/2" (long point to long point of a 45 degree angle).
3. Using the third piece, cut two pieces to 31 1/2" (long point to long point of a 45 degree angle).
**The Hub's stacked the pieces, and cut them at the same time to make sure that they're cut exactly the same.
To position the table so that the frame could be attached (and to keep the table top from going through the box), clamp some spare wood to the inside of the box, and then lean the table back. (see picture above)
4. Apply wood glue to the frame pieces, and then nail into place with brad nailer (1"-1 1/4" brads).
*Make sure that frame pieces are held flush with the outside edge of the box when nailing.*
Part 5
Legs And Center Frame
1. Rip 1 x 4 to 2"
(The leg/frame will be 15" wide over all)
2. Then cut 26 5/8" x 2" (cut 6 of these two of which will be used for the center frame sides ) ("A") side pieces.
3. Cut 11" x 2" (cut 4 of these) ("B") top and bottom pieces.
4. Using the kreg jig drill 1 hole in the center of each 11" piece.
5. Attach "A" to "B" using wood glue and screws, clamp together to help hold them, and keep them flush.
6. Attach hinges 4" to hinge from the inside of the frame
7. Attach legs to the hinges leaving a 3/8" gap all the way around
8. Cut side leg trim pieces 26 5/8" (long point to long point of a 45 degree angle) (x6 of them two of these will be for the center frame)
9. Put trim piece on edge on the hinges hinge and mark to notch for hinges. (pictured below)
10. Place trim piece flat next to hinge to scribe exact depth to notch for hinge.(pictured below)
11.Square lines across for notch and cut with circular saw (reference picture for notching procedures).
12. Cut top and bottom pieces 15" (long point to long point) of a 45 degree angle (x4)
13. Glue and nail trim pieces to legs.
Center Frame
1. Cut side pieces 26 5/8" (x2) (should already have these from previous "leg" steps)
2. Top and Bottom 11 3/4" ---Overall width 15 3/4".
3. Cut the top and bottom trim pieces 15 3/4" (long point to long point 45 degrees).
4. Glue and brad nail frame to center and trim to center leaving a 3/8" gap all the way around.
Top Latch
Find center and attach.
Part 5
Inside "Stuff"
Trays:
1. Cut gutter to 16" (x10). Drill holes for screws to attach sides (See pictures below!).
2. For inside tray rails (aka vertical side pieces) cut 1x4x30" (x 4).
Spacing for the trays: From top of the side measure, 3" to the top of the first tray then 5 1/2" to the top of every other
3. Mark center of rails (1 3/4") and center of tray (1 3/16") down from each of the marks made for the tops of the trays (i.e. from the 3" mark measure down 1 3/16" then from each mark after that do the same) these will be the center marks for the 3/8" dowel holes. (*see picture below*)
4. On one rail of each set of rails measure in from one side 1 1/4" and up from the center of each of the 3/8" dowel holes 2 1/2" and this will be the center of the holes for the stoppers to keep the trays from completely flipping over. (*see picture below*)
5.Drill these "stopper" holes with a 5/16" drill bit only half way through.
6. Cut dowels 3/4" long and glue in place. (*see picture below)
Tray sides
Scribe with inside of the gutter. Cut one and use as a template for the rest (in this case, 20 total)
Attach the sides to the gutters with 1/2" metal screws, 3 per side (one on each side and one on the bottom as pictured below)
Mark the center of the tray sides and drill sides wit 5/16" drill bit
(Tip: Use a piece of tape on your drill bit for a depth indication. Only drill half way into the sides of trays. You may also be able to find a gauge that attaches to your drill bit at a hardware store. My hub's came in a doweling kit.)
Drill tray rails with a 3/8" drill bit. the bigger hole allows the trays to pivot (Tip: You can drill two at a time. Clamp them together, but make sure to drill straight through to the lines line up after being separated. Also, it is good to use a scrap piece of wood as backing to prevent the wood from splintering. )
Cut (20) 5/16" dowels to 1" in length for use in tray sides. Put glue into the holes then lightly tap dowels into them
Shelves
1. Rip a 1x8x6 to 6 5/8" wide.
2. Cut (2) side pieces to 30".
3. Cut 2 shelf pieces to 13"
4. Measure from the top of the shelf sides down 10" and 20" and these will be the centers of the shelves.
5.At the tops and bottoms of each of the sides drill evenly spaced holes with your jig to make it easier to attach.
Part 6
Mounting The Box To The Wall
First find the center of the wall you will be mounting the table to.
Find the studs in this area that the table will be in on the wall then figure for the size of the box (i.e. mark the sides of the table out on the wall so you know how many studs the box will mount to).
From one of the marks on the wall that represent the sides of the box measure to each stud line then mark those measurements out on the inside top and bottom pieces of the box. This is where you will drill holes with your jig to screw the box to the studs you have marked out on the wall (*pictured below*) (metal "L" brackets can also be purchased at most hardware stores to mount to the wall if you want another way to attach it to the wall).
Measure 16" up from the floor and make a mark (this will be to the bottom of the box) from that mark level across and make a line.
Cut two boards 16" to set the box on to help hold it while screwing it to the wall (it is good to have someone assisting to help hold the box so it does not fall on you.....Safety First!).
Remove the table top from the box leaving the hinges attached to the box.
Set the box on the 16" boards and screw to the studs. My Hub's used 2 1/2" pocket hole screws three top and three bottom but it never hurts to use a longer screw.
Once the box is mounted to the wall reattach the table top to the hinges.
Part 7
Installing The Inside "Stuff"
First slide the shelves in, center them up and put screws in the top and bottom holes.
Next lay one tray rail flat and place each one of the dowels on the sides of the trays into each hole so that the trays are standing vertical. Now take the opposing rail and line up the dowels with the holes and fit on top.
The Original Work Table
Wall box:
Top and bottom pieces- 36"
Sides- 35 1/4" x 5 1/2" wide (1 x 6)
Table:
34 1/4" w x 35" l
Exterior frame:
Top and bottom pieces- 36" x 2 1/4" (long point to long point)
sides- 36 3/4" x2 1/4" w (long point to long point).
Rip a 1 x 4 to get these pieces.
Legs/center frame:
Top and bottom pieces 31 1/4" x 3 1/2" ({2}1 x 4's)
sides- 24 1/4" x 3 1/2" ({2}1 x 4's)
leg frame trim:
Top and bottom- 31 1/4"(long point to long point) x 1 1/4" wide (1x4)
sides- 31 1/4" (long point to long point) x 1 1/4" wide (1 x 4)
**For these pieces, use the drop offs from the exterior frame cuts.
Shelves:
Sides- 35 1/4" l x 2 3/4" w (x 2)
Shelves 32 7/8" x 2 3/4" w ( x 4)
Space shelves according to your needs.
For the exact spacing on my table, from the top of the shelf sides, measure down 5" to the top of the first shelf, then 10 3/4" to the top of the next shelf, and then 16 1/2" to the top of the next shelf, and then 25" to the top of the last shelf.
Dowels- 34" x 3/8" (x 4)
*From top of shelves measure up 1 3/8" to the center, and back 1/4" to the center.
*Last shelf, measure up 2 3/8" to the center, and 1/4" back to the center.
**These are your center marks for the dowels.
(This picture shows where the dowels are hitting, and how the screws go into the bottom of the shelves.)
If you do build your dream table, we would love to see pictures, so please email away!
Happy building!
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